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Category Archives: culture & heritage

Temples of Bangalore – Kote Venkataramana

Growing up in a traditional Brahminical family in Bangalore, this temple had always been ‘Kote Kovil’ for me. If I had known its history and significance to the city then, I’d have been too awed to step into it!

The Kote Venkataramanswamy temple, stands squeezed between the busy street and the sprawling gardens of Tipu’s Summer Palace in Bangalore.

venkataramanswamy-temple

Built in 1695 during the time of Chikka Deva Raya, the temple has witnessed a 300 year-old tale of the city. This was the period of the Mysore rulers, the Wodeyars,  purchasing the city from the Mughals and fortifying it. The word ‘Kote’ means Fort in Kannada language. Once the seat of Royalty, thetemple now stands in the commercial nerve centre of the city.

Tipu Sultan

During the brief rule of Tipu Sultan, a Palace was built adjacent to this temple. This was not exactly due to religious tolerance. Those were the days when the Kings were treated as God and it was usually the norm in those days to built the palace near the city’s temples. Tipu merely followed this norm!

tipu-sultan

The Temple has a huge Gopuram built in typical Dravidian Style. The passage leads to a mukha mantapa, navaranga, and an inner garbha griha (sanctum sanctorum). Though it has been a Vishnu temple since Wodeyars’ rule, there are some claims made by  scholars that the temple is much older and with Shaivite origins. The basis for this statement is the Girija Kalyana (Parvathi’s marriage to Shiva) carvings on the outer walls of the temple; which is rather odd in a Vishnu temple.

kote-gopuram

As I came out of the temple, I was also blessed by another ‘venkataramana’ at the entrance.

kote-2

However on Vaikunta Ekadashi day, I dont think even this Venkataramana will have time for a photo shoot. In an otherwise busy street, devotees form huge queues to visit the Lord on this auspicious day.

 
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Posted by on May 6, 2009 in bangalore, culture & heritage

 

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Temples of Bangalore – Tulasi Thota

The Dharmaraya temple and its Karaga festival is explained in every history book’s chapter on Bengaluru’s culture or heritage. However the city being a mix of many cultures performs many other lesser known and very old temples & festivals. My next few posts will be an attempt to unravel them.

I will start the series with this post on Tulasi Thota, behind Chikka Lalbagh in Balepet-Akkipet area.

thulasi-thota
The temple’s two main deities are Lord Krishna and Rama. During March April every year the area sees a ‘Brahma Rathothsavam’ for Lord Krishna and Ramothsavam for Lord Rama.

The main deity of this temple is Lord Krishna, in the classic picture, as a child with a cup of butter. The age of this temple is a mystery. While one source says the temple was built in 1844 by Sri Chamaraja Wodeyar, the ruler of Mysore, another source mentions its age to be much older.

Read the rest of this entry »

 
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Posted by on April 24, 2009 in culture & heritage, india

 

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NRI’s work is God’s work

In the days of yore, it was the Maharajas who patronised temple building during the height of their powers. Mahabalipuram, Hampi’s Virupaksha, Ashoka’s Sarnath pillar are a few examples. Now that we have a democracy, I thought that the mantle is taken over by our politicians. After all, ‘Government’s work is God’s work’, declares Vidhana Soudha. But I guess it’s the NRIs who are the neo-Kings. With financial support from Non-Resident Indians, the state government plans to renovate 500 temples in Coastal Karnataka and Udupi. A welcome move considering that even now, in many small villages, economies revolve around the temples. Read on.

 
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Posted by on December 17, 2008 in culture & heritage, india

 

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Mysore – down the memory lane

Brindavan Gardens

Brindavan Gardens

Its always the same. New York residents would have hardly said hello to the ‘lady with the torch’ on the Liberty Island. Londoners would not even have spared a cursory glance at the Big Ben or any other landmarks of their famous city. I received a typical French rebuff when I asked a young Parisian the way to Eiffel Tower in my best broken French.

Predictably, though I have spent many happy days as a child in Mysore and have made Bangalore my home, my trips to Mysore have been very infrequent. Last weekend’s visit was not just a nostalgic trip but also an introduction of this city to my wide-eyed toddler. Steeped in History, Mysore is famous for its royal grandeur, wide paved roads and a laidback lifestyle. Apart from its palaces, Mysore’s two other most popular tourists destination are its Shalimar-inspired Brindavan Gardens and the Chamarajendra Zoological Gardens; popularly known as Mysore Zoo. My visit to the city was after nearly a decade. The two places had undergone a complete transformation that the places were as new to me as it was to my kid.

The KrishnarajaSagar Dam also known as KRS and the adjoining Brindavan gardens, is situated around 18 km from Mysore. The reservoir and the terrace styled garden were shining examples of engineering and beautification thanks to the efforts of the two famous Dewans of Mysore Kingdom, Sir M Viswewaraya and Mirza Ismail. The Gardens are open to public on all days from 6 am- 8pm, whilethe musical fountain show, which is the highlight of the visit, is between 6.30 – 8.30pm everyday. The garden is mughal-styled; Sir Mirza was possibly influenced by Kashmir’s Shalimar Gardens that he wanted to recreate it in Mysore. And when you are tired walking all around this 60 acres of sprawling greenery, the snack corner provides some much needed grub(chat, ice-creams, gobi manchurian, soft drinks) and an earful from the microphone of the over enthusiastic marketing.  A note to cheer all Bangaloreans, the parking space is huge, so dont worry on that front.

My early memories of Mysore Zoo were as a kid to a small smelly place with lot of caged animals. But the Zoo today has undergone a complete transformation. The place is eco-friendly. Visitors are advised not to bring in any plastic. There’s a search at the entrance and the plastic bags are replaced by paper bags at the Zoo’s expense. Once mostly caged animals now roam in huge open areas surrounded by trenches. There are guided tours in an open vehicle that resembles an elongated golf cart for those who cannot walk the entire stretch. It was heartening to see the elephants, both Indian and African, after the infamous poisoning episodes at the Zoo a few years back.

To reach the Brindavan Gardens

Take the KRS Road near the City Railway Station. It takes an hour to reach the place; the last stretch is in a very poor condition. The Musical Fountains are the hightlight of the Gardens and the show is during 6.30 -8.30 every evening. Entrance fee for adults – Rs 15/-, children – Rs 5/- and camera charges are extra.

To reach Mysore Zoo.

The Zoo is 2 km from the Mysore Palace, in the city. Follow the sign boards to reach the place. The Zoo is  open from 8.30 – 5.30 on all days except on Tuesdays. Admission fee for adults – Rs 25/-, children(5-12 years) - Rs 10/-, camera charges extra.

 
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Posted by on December 15, 2008 in culture & heritage, india, travel

 

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How much do you know about Bangalore?

Bangalore is growing radically and is as cosmopolitan as Mumbai. Many a Bangalorean would be surprised to know that this city has always had a multicultural history, just like Mumbai. To know more about Bangalore, its heritage, culture and places that one could visit around the city, read my articles published in CitizenMatters, an online Bangalore publication. Read the latest article. Check the publications page for links to my other articles.

 
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Posted by on November 10, 2008 in bangalore, culture & heritage

 

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Bangalore Walks

Since its conception in 2005 by Arun Pai, I always wanted to go on these walks – more out of curiosity than any real inclination to know about the city. What can one know about Bangalore since it has a very young history. Bangalore city was planned and created by Kempegowda, a local chieftain in 16th century. It housed a British cantonment colony in the 19th century and its famous Gardens – Lalbagh was conceptualised during the reign of Tipu Sultan, a muslim warrior with a love for roses. Apart from this, I couldn’t think of anything worth a mention.So, it came as a pleasant surprise that we could discover a lot about the city’s history in a short walk on MG Road. Some quiz questions to churn your grey cells and induce you to discover in the walks.

  • Did you know that there is a Victoran house with a tennis court on this busy commercial MG Road? With soaring real estate prices, it’s really commendable of the owner to maintain his private space on the most commercial of all streets in Bangalore.
  • The building facing ‘The Estate’ on Dickenson Road has a unique history – connected to electricity. (I have worked in ‘The Estate’, but never knew this building’s significance)
  • Have you given a thought to the statue facing away from Mayo Hall? What is his significance?

To find the answers to these and discover other interesting facts in the city’s tale, take the Victorian Walk with the Bangalore Walks guide. The walk starts from Trinity church and ends at St Marks Circle and is a short distance of 2 km. The pace is relaxed and it ends with a sumptuous South Indian breakfast at a venue with fantastic view. The venue name is not revealed till the end.

My personal recommendation to anyone interested in the city’s history and culture, do take the walk. Sure, its at 7 am on a weekend, when most of us relish that extra slumber – but its worth the effort. With few vehicles at that time, it’s a pleasure to drive to the venue and you come away knowing a lot more about the city at the end of the tour.
 
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Posted by on June 2, 2008 in bangalore, culture & heritage

 

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