My travelogue on Vadodara aka Baroda, Of the regal past, was recently published in Deccan Herald’s Sunday Supplement.
Here’s the unedited version.
The Queen Regent Jamna Bai was relieved. The terror reign of Malhar Rao was finally over. That he had tried to poison the Resident was the final nail in the coffin. Now, she had one more task –of choosing a worthy successor who would rule the Gaekwad Kingdom wisely. Among all the boyschosen to become the next Maharaja of Gaekwad, she found young Gopal Rao very promising. Andshe had made the right choice. Gopal Rao became Sayaji Rao Gaekwad III, the Maharaja of GaekwadKingdom. Under his rule, the region at large and its capital, Vadodara (Baroda) thrived.
(Image Courtesy: Google maps)
Baroda or Vadodara lies in Western India, 120 km from Ahmedabad. It is also the former capital ofGaekwad State.
The city’s progress can be divided into two segments – before Sayaji Rao III and after. Sayaji’s reignin Baroda was during 1863 to 1939.
Lakshmi Vilas Palace
Hence my first stop was at the majestic Lakshmi Vilas Palace in the heart of the city. The Palace wascommissioned by Sayaji Rao and was architected by an Englishman, Major Charles Mant. It wascompleted in 1890. The Hindi speaking guide narrated the story of the dynasty in the flattering tone that spoke of loyaltyfor his royal employers. The Palace though open for public, is privately owned and maintained by theroyal family.
Built in Indo Sarcenic Style, the heritage structure reflects an Indo European amalgamation ofarchitecture. The paintings that adorn the entrance to the ornate Diwan –e-Khaas hall, the Italianfountain, the main staircase built with no extended support, the busts of royal family all reflect thesame feeling.
As the guide led the group from one room to another, I mentally drifted to those days when theMaharajas ruled in all their pomp and splendour. The Maharajas in full Regalia in the court, thecrystal chandeliers, the marble and granite statues, the paintings with an Italian feel to them, theportrait of the successive Kings and Regents, the various arms and ammunition used in those days.
The palace from the outside just like the city reflects the cultural amity through a combination ofdome, turrets and towers; with respect to the different religious symbols of architecture – Christian,Jain, Muslim and Hindu.
Predictably, our guide spoke highly about Maharaja Sayaji Rao III who did much to the bettermentof the city.
A Maratha King to a Gujarati township he ensured the strong cosmopolitan culturewhich the city holds is maintained. He made primary education compulsory in his state. He foundedthe Bank of Baroda in 1908 and was instrumental in setting up the first inter city railway in India,between Bombay and Baroda. He also initiated the idea of a University in Baroda accessible toall; the task however was completed by his grandson, Pratap Singh Rao Gaekwad. He gifted theKomati Baug now called as Sayaji Baug to the Baroda City. He put Baroda on the Industrial map bypromoting Textile industry.
As I heard his achievements narrated quite emotionally by the guide, it reminded me of our ownNalvadi Krishnaraja Wodeyar who reigned Mysore State around the same time(1884 to 1940).
In fact there are a lot of similarities in their rule and hence their cities – encouragement for arts andculture, importance to education, promoting economic and industrial growth in their respectiveKingdoms. In fact, the main thoroughfare in Mysore is named after Sayaji Rao Gaekwad!
(Image Courtesy: Wikipedia)
Mulling over such similarities, I walked along with the group out of the building and stood facing the Palace. It looked magnificent and somehow reminded me of Rajasthan. “You are right in a way”,replied our Guide. “The entire palace has been built using Sandstone, imported from Jodhpur”, he explained.
The Lakshmi Vilas Palace reminded me of the Amba Vilas Palace of Mysore. Sadly, thereis no write up about the place and one has to rely on the guide’s accented Hindi. The only one audioguide instrument is slow with the music fillers more than the description.
The greens around the Palace are now converted into a golf course. An outdoor auditorium is rentedout for weddings. The Fateh Singh Museum next door, once the school for Princes, consists of anexcellent collection of Ravi Verma’s paintings, much of them are portraits of the royal family. Theone that caught my eye was a couple of horses with two princes that looked different from differentangles.
That the Gaekwads loved the railways is evident by the fact that Maharaja Pratap Rao Gaekwadhad a three km long mini railway track around the Palace grounds to ferry the young Princes andPrincesses from the palace to their school. Built by Mr Bullock the owner of Survey Border andCamberley Railway in 1936, it made its maiden run in 1941 on the third birthday of Maharaja RanjitSingh Gaekwad. A scaled down model of the train stands proudly in front of the Museum.
History before Gaekwads
However, the history of the city dates even further back. The city was supposed to be created on thebanks of Vishwamitri river, named after the famous Sage Vishwamitra. Today however the town’smain water source is Ajwa lake.
The region’s documented history dates as far back as 812 AD when traders settled in this region. Theregion was ruled by Hindu Kings until 1297 and then it was ruled by Independent Muslim rulers untilthe Mughals conquered them. It finally fell into the hands of the Marathas who reigned from 1732until Independence when the Kingdom acceded to Indian Union.
Baroda Today
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(Image Courtesy: Wikipedia)
Baroda is better known to day for its University. Its huge dome looms large inside the city. The day I was in the city, Venki, the Nobel laureate was giving a lecture in its premises. The Universityhas a number of courses ranging from performing arts to sciences. Predictably the areas where itsstudents’ hang around have a very lively ambience.
The old city area is very crowded and thrives as a busy shopping place. The streets are extremely narrow and many old houses are built in the typical old Maratha architecture, snugly fit, complete with narrow wooden staircases and a rope to hang on to! The busy area can be compared to Bangalore’s pete (Chikka pete) where every house has a shop andvehicles are driven through the narrowest of lanes.
The main language of the city is Gujarati; however the cosmopolitan group also speak Hindi. As is the case of every town or city, the bungalows in the new city are being replaced by set of apartments.





