Udaipur – founded by Maharana Udai Singh II, when he lost the famous Chittor fort to the Mughals. A picturesque city set amidst aravalli hills, surrounded by lakes, a rich culture and a famous history. I was very excited to leave the more commercialised Jaipur to experience this land of Rajputs. Added to the fact was that we had booked a suite that faced the famous lake Pichola.
Journey
Udaipur is 401.4 km from Jaipur. Travelling from Jaipur, one has to take NH8 route. However that day, the road was blocked due to Gujjar protests. So we took a slightly longer route from Pushkar, via Chittorgarh on NH79.
I was very keen to see Chittor – the doomed fort town which withstood more than three attacks by Mughals. But the most famous tragic tale is that of Rani Padmini who fell into the pyre(jauhar) with other royal ladies while their husbands along with the King Ratan Singh committed Saka – fighting till death a losing battle with Alauddin Khilji, Sultan of Delhi.
In fact, the doomed tale of Chittoor led to the founding of Udaipur. During the third raid on the fort by the Mughals led by Akbar, Maharana Udai Singh II ran away from Chittor and founded a new city, Udaipur in the foothills of Aravalli range. Since it was well nestled among the mountains, it was safe from the ravaging Mughals.
While the stories are very interesting and full of drama, the landscape is far from it. Going on the NH 79, the scenery appeared dusty, arid and with occasional dry bushes on either side. The bright burning sun gave the final composition to the stark region; we had not even touched the desert region! I dreaded to have a flat tyre in this highway.
Still, it was a good journey, atleast we were in a car! Imagine crossing these regions on a horseback! I loved the stark contrast of the landscape with the colourful clothes the people wear here. While the journey was uneventful, the last leg took away much of my enthusiasm of arriving at Udaipur. Thanks to the President of India!
It seems, Ms Prathibha Patil, our honorable President had arrived at Udaipur to offer prayers at Jag Mandir, the lake temple. This resulted in the inevitable traffic jam that usually occurs in such occasions. The last few kilometres of tarred road looked like a badly packed closet with every kind of vehicle trying to nose its wheel into the last inch of space left on the highway. So what should take 30 minutes took us 2 painful hours of crawling at the speed of an ant.
We finally reached the hotel at 11 in the night and my son went to sleep without dinner – well, atleast in a comfortable bed. Thank you bureaucracy!
Jagat Niwas
The next morning, we rose from our beds to appreciate at the location of Jagat Niwas. The heritage hotel overlooking Lake Pichola was right next to the huge Udaipur Palace. Our room was the lowest one that had box windows jutting into the lake. Sipping chai and looking out, it seemed as if our room was precariously perched on the water.
As I wandered around the courtyard, I spotted a huge tulsi plant with a traditional katte (platform). Jagat Niwas hotel, like every other hotel in this area, was once a haveli. Build in the traditional style with an open courtyard in the centre and surrounded by myriad suites, I suspect this corner to be a ladies’ section. The hotel is a very popular one and one needs to book in advance, especially if you want a lake facing room.
Lake Pichola
Lake Pichola is a vast lake 3 miles long and 2 miles wide. Perched high on one side is the huge Palace and smattering set of heritage buildings that are now hotels. On the other side one can see the ghats, Jagdish temple and in the far end, one can spot the Sajjangarh fort, a summer home of the Mewar royals which is also a good spot to enjoy a good sunset.
The lake however is man made and built in 13th century, by Rana Banjara who evacuated an entire Picholi to form this lake! Lakes such as these were then used as water sources (for bathing, washing etc) other than providing a surreal ambience. Very beautiful and picturesque, this lake can however get completely dry in summer.
The lake has two islands that are home to Lake Palace and Jag Mandir. While the former is now a hotel, the latter is a small Shiv temple with a restaurant and calm instrumental music wafting in hot afternoons. An obvious delight to have lunch at.
About the food, be warned, since most of the tourists here are foreigners, the heritage havelis and the palace hotels serve continental or standard north indian food. To try a local cuisine, one has to leave the lake side and visit the inner areas.
After a series of dal bhatis, we craved for some idli dosas and visited a south indian hotel in the market area. Surprisingly it was great food that we did full justice too! In the western part, look for Gujarathi hotels, they would also serve good South Indian food. I loved the colourful chutneys(atlest four!) that they serve before the main course is ready.
City Palace
When you go for a boat ride on the lake Pichola, look at the palace from a distance. The huge palace complex appears atleast half the size of the hillock nearby. You’ll get a rough estimate of how huge this palace is. A local guide said with pride that this was the largest palace in Rajasthan & the second largest Palace in Asia! I can vouch for his pride but am not sure about the fact:)
The Palace is actually a huge complex of palaces built during different eras spanning over 300 years. The ‘Rai Angan’ was the first to be built by Rana Udai Singh II. Consequently the Fateh Prakash Palace, Krishna Mahal, Mor chowk etc have been built in different eras. As one enters the palace through a three arched gates (Tripolia), there are several toranas in the passage that leads to mehak chowk. These were then used to weigh the kings and an equal amount of gold was distributed among the people. No wonder the locals like there royalty so much!
The passage leads to a huge courtyard which is often hired for private weddings. Though lucrative for the Palace upkeep, it does take away the royal ambience that goes with such huge palaces. Some of the palaces here are hotels. Check with the reception in advance if you plan to have lunch here since they get booked for private parties where general hungry public are not allowed. Its quite a distance from one end to the other here, so be prepared & keep your rucksack full.
Apart from Udai Singh, the other famous King of the Sisodia clan is Maharana Pratap who defeated Akbar in the battle of Haldighati. The Mewar dynasty is quite long and the stories make a charming book that can be taxing even for a history buff. My advice, take a guided tour – if you get tired, make it across two days for a couple of hours in a day each.
Sajjangarh
(image courtesy: Wikipedia)
This hilltop fort is actually a hunting lodge cum palace of the Rajputs, built by yet another Rana, Rana Sajjan Singh. Perched on the very top of the hill, its interiors are stark, unlike the beautiful City Palace. However the tourists visit this hill top fort for its views of the udaipur city and the magnificent Sunset.
I like the sunsets in Rajasthan. Unlike South India, which have skies with passing white clouds that give a haze to the brightness of the sun, the Sun in Rajasthan is magnificent and hot. Its the only thing that decorates the sky. And at 6pm (atleast in winter), one moment its there and the next moment its gone, taking away the heat and making way to the coolness of the moon. I’m not being poetic, the Sun is.
Udaipur City
The best way to know more about the old city is to walk everywhere. While the recent added areas are much like any other modern Indian city, the roads in old area near the Ghats have deceptive narrow roads that almost seems to lead you into someone’s haveli turned hotel. Along the small lanes are shops that sell almost everything – colourful clothes, bags, handicrafts and also ‘fast and furious internet’ connection. Massage Parlours are very popular here and some of them tout the Lonely Planet recommended badges.
While the entire area has a venice like ambience, with every nook or corner leading into an charming haveli, I was taken aback with the aggressive driving in these matchbox like areas. An area that was originally planned for pedestrians have very little of them today. Two wheelers, rickshaws, tongas, cars and even small tempos zip in & out of the urban maze! Enjoyable until you get caught in a traffic jam.
Just one advice to Indian tourists. Most of the LP recommended restaurants serve good continental food. So dont just go by the LP rating – see what kind of food you would prefer.
This is a sequel to the Vadodara 
A Maratha King to a Gujarati township he ensured the strong cosmopolitan culturewhich the city holds is maintained. He made primary education compulsory in his state. He foundedthe Bank of Baroda in 1908 and was instrumental in setting up the first inter city railway in India,between Bombay and Baroda. He also initiated the idea of a University in Baroda accessible toall; the task however was completed by his grandson, Pratap Singh Rao Gaekwad. He gifted theKomati Baug now called as Sayaji Baug to the Baroda City. He put Baroda on the Industrial map bypromoting Textile industry.
The old city area is very crowded and thrives as a busy shopping place. The streets are extremely narrow and many old houses are built in the typical old Maratha architecture, snugly fit, complete with narrow wooden staircases and a rope to hang on to! The busy area can be compared to Bangalore’s pete (Chikka pete) where every house has a shop andvehicles are driven through the narrowest of lanes.
Within the palace is a much beautiful Diwan-e-Khaas, the Durbar hall where the Kings met his ministers.
